Heartcracks and egg magic

I read once that tiny fissures can appear on a human heart; the cracks driven by stress hormones. It turns out that a broken heart isn’t just a way of describing an emotional sojourn.

When life throws you a curveball or three, how do you react? People deal with challenges in different ways and with me, my cooking routine can go one of two ways. I either try to lose myself in detailed, painstaking cooking that requires hours of attention or I shut down and stop cooking. With a mountain of baking ahead for a tea party this weekend, I figured I could give myself a little break until then. Lately, it’s all I can do to boil an egg for dinner.

Sometimes, a boiled egg can be more than just sustenance. You know how things are crowdsourced? In my Chinese family, I was crowdraised by my grandparents, uncle, parents and family friends. The house was never empty and it’ll sound peculiar but I must have been about 10 years old before I found myself at home without an adult. On that occasion, I ended up trailing behind my brother who was seriously annoyed to find he had acquired a new shadow. A shadow that whimpered and clutched at his sleeve, no less.

I was eight years old when a boiled egg was the centre of one of the strangest experiences of my childhood. I’d stayed home sick from school for several days. I remember lying prone on the couch, as my throat felt like a barbed wire fence, strewn with harsh spikes. My grandmother’s hands feathered my brow to gauge my fever and then quickly retreated. My eyes stayed closed as I tried to sleep to escape reality for a while. Nudged awake by my grandmother, I was told to sit up and hold still. I yelped as my back was suddenly scalded. Turning around, I found my grandmother holding a single egg in her hand. She asked me to lie on my stomach instead if I was going to fidget.

Wincing, it felt as if my grandmother was repeatedly stabbing a hot poker onto my innocent, bare back. Meanwhile, my only thoughts were:

  1. What was my grandmother doing?
  2. How could she hold that freshly boiled egg without burning herself?
  3. When will this ritual skin burning end so I could sleep?

I’d forgotten that my grandma had asbestos hands that could withstand very hot temperatures. Come to think of it, I’ve developed asbestos hands myself over time. After about five minutes, she relented and let me rest. Huffing, my grandmother said that she was only trying to help me get better. By this point, I was feeling hard done by and sulkily asked if at the very least I could eat the egg now if she was quite finished with the treatment.

Good ol’ granny reacted as if I’d asked for a shot of hard liquor! Insisting that the egg had absorbed some of my fever and illness, she carefully peeled away the shell from the still hot egg. Now this is where the story gets interesting. From memory, the hard boiled egg emerged with tiny bubbles captured within the white, not dissimilar to a Aero chocolate bar, except not quite as bubbly. I mentioned this to my mother recently who says that my mind is playing tricks as it would have been the yolk that had the holes. Who knows where the truth lies?

I honestly can’t recall if I recovered any quicker after the boiled egg treatment but I was always cocooned in the intense concern of my grandmother and for that, I’m grateful. I was spoiled rotten by my grandparents when I was young and not with material things. This is how I always remember my grandparents and not how they are/were in their later years when time had taken some of its revenge.

Papery skin, cranky tantrums, halting steps and eyes that light up when I enter a room. All of these, I find bittersweet. Of late, it wearies my heart in a way that makes the small, petty machinations of others seem very insignificant.

I’ve got more important people on my mind and in my life.

Sunday breakfast: Sausage and egg muffin

Leftovers are either a delight or a bane on your life. I only like to eat the same thing about three times in a row. Any more and I end up balefully staring at the remainders in the fridge, wishing they’d disappear of their own accord. Which is why I plan to upgrade my fridge in the next few months so I can have a larger freezer to portion out food. My fridge is tiny and the freezer compartment is even smaller.

On Sunday morning I woke up ravenous and had two options. Cook or walk down to the nearby farmers markets. I really need to save a bit more money since I’ve been wishing to renovate my kitchen for over a year now with no progress in sight. So I opened the fridge and decided to make my own take on a sausage and egg muffin. I love English muffins. Toasted, then topped with a dollop of hummous, a slice of ripe tomato, fresh herbs and cracked pepper? Hmm, delicious. Okay okay, I have to focus!

A few days beforehand I’d baked a borek and I had a small amount of leftover filling. I’d based the flavours loosely on an Italian sausage so it contained fresh fennel, pork, onion, fennel fronds and spices. I toasted my muffins, fried up an egg and gently heated some of the filling in the same pan. A squeeze of sriracha over egg and voila! A breakfast that tastes good in its own right.

A glass of juice completed the meal and I think we can safely say that these particular leftovers fall firmly into the delight category.

Glazed strawberry, tahini and lemon slice

Drizzled with a simple lemon glaze
Drizzled with a simple lemon glaze

Eat this slice-cake hybrid with a cup of tea on a lazy afternoon. That’s how I imagine consuming it anyway. In reality, on Sunday I baked, decorated and gifted a scant half portion each to my friends Kitty and Skill.

Lightly sweetened, the lemon glaze on top of this shallow teacake complements the roasted strawberries and lemon zest tossed in the batter. But why tahini too? I was aiming for a nuttiness and since I made up the recipe, I was a little cautious with the sesame paste so it didn’t overwhelm. I’ve adjusted the recipe below, upping the tahini a little so there’s a more distinct sesame note. The base is just firm enough to hold the strawberries without falling apart but it’s still more cake than biscuit.

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Orto Trading Co.

This dinner was funny, delicious and mortifying. Oh so mortifying.

Catching up for dinner with my friend Dan last week, I asked him what kind of cuisine he felt like having. Japanese or Mexican were his two suggestions. After some thought, I floated the possibility of going to El Capo which does street style Latin/Mexican in a casual setting with a bit of an outlaw theme. From Monday to Thursday, there’s an option of the prison plate which as per prison, you eat what you’re served, no questions asked. It’s a gimmick and the silly side of me loves that idea. I guess it helps that generally I’m not a picky eater. Discerning maybe but I am the kind of person who will eat when I’m hungry and not make a big fuss if something isn’t perfect.

But why is this post labelled Orto Trading Co then, you might ask? I met Dan at his place and we strolled over to El Capo. Deep in conversation, we saw the large El Capo sign and walked straight into the restaurant without pause. Sitting down, we were offered water and had a brief discussion about the booking policies with the waiter.

Perusing the menu, my eyes lit upon the logo at the top right-hand corner and my heart sank. Instantly, Dan noticed and asked what was wrong. I stabbed at the menu and hissed: We’re at the wrong restaurant!

The logo on the menu...
The logo on the menu…

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Shin Kee Beef Noodles Specialist

Loulou and I walked past Shin Kee on our way to Central Market which is about 5 minutes walk from Petaling Street in Kuala Lumpur. The scent of beef noodle soup wafted out the front and we looked at each other and said: “We have to come back and eat here later!”. Later that night, we made good on our intentions with an early dinner at Shin Kee.

Outside signage of Shin Kee
Shin Kee signage

Becoming giddy with excitement, I had my first food nerd experience in Malaysia here. When the signage says beef noodles specialist, that’s exactly what it means. The only thing you can order here is beef noodles. You choose your noodles from about five varieties and whether you want beef slices, beef meatballs or a mix. Serving sizes in Malaysia are happily on the small side and you don’t usually have to worry about overeating unless you order multiple items.

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Blood orange curd

Blood oranges are in season here at the moment. I bought these beautiful specimens from my local fruit and vegetable shop. The store closed for good last weekend after operating as a family business for 38 years. It makes me very sad as the Italian owners were quirky and loud and it took less than 10 minutes to walk there via the back streets of my neighourhood.

They vary so much in colour and how 'bloody' they are.
Blood oranges vary so much in colour and how ‘bloody’ they are.

They stocked some more obscure items too like chestnut puree, dried cod (bacalhau) and chickpea flour as well as your usual fruit and vegetables. Business was too slow in the last 6 months and the owners said they “never ever want to own a fruit and vegetable store again”. Local murmurings are that the space will be renovated to reopen in two months as a cafe/deli.

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